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Ny Ålesund: This is as Far North as I Get

September 9, 2026

When I opened my curtain this morning, I was surrounded by glaciers, snow-covered mountains, and floating blue ice floes. What a way to wake up!

The ship’s internet was turned off because our next destination, Ny-Ålesund, is more of a research station than a town. Passengers were also required to turn off cellular service and Bluetooth on all devices to help protect the limited bandwidth needed for sensitive scientific equipment. During the summer, more than 100 researchers from over 10 countries, representing 20 glaciology and climate institutes, work here.

Before visiting, passengers had to attend a mandatory orientation. We learned that we needed to be very quiet because of the abundant wildlife, be respectful of the landscape, and stay on the wooden walkways.

Simple rules to protect a delicate ecosystem

Most importantly, we were told that if the ship sounded one long horn, it meant a polar bear was nearby, and we were to run back to the ship or the nearest building. All the doors here are kept unlocked for exactly this reason!

I ventured around “town” on foot, encountering armed security at each boundary. This is absolutely necessary, as apparently not everyone follows the rules anymore. I would love to have this job, but alas, I’m obviously too old to live on Svalbard!

This is the coolest job on Earth. Not only do you get to scold ignorant tourists, but you get to look badass doing it!

Ny-Ålesund definitely has the feel of a temporary settlement, with only the basic necessities of life available here.

The highlight for me was walking out to the mooring mast used by Roald Amundsen’s airship Norge.

The airship was tethered here before embarking on its historic 1926 flight across the North Pole. We had to walk in pairs, with armed guides at both the front and back of our group, since polar bears frequent this area.

Amundsen chose Ny-Ålesund as a base for his 1926 expedition to the North Pole.

I saw a lot of reindeer within and surrounding the town, as well as some seals along the water. Remember Bergmann’s rule from school—the idea that animals in colder climates tend to have more bulk—and Allen’s rule, which says that animals in colder climates tend to have shorter, more compact appendages? They certainly apply here! Compared with reindeer in Canada, these Arctic reindeer are rounder and fatter, with shorter ears and legs. They’re actually kind of funny-looking!